How To Clean Rust Off An Older Blued Pistol

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RUGER GP100 with a couple of small rust spots on the bluing. What is the best way to remove the rust and to care for the spot after word try and match the original bluing? Thank you....
I have removed rust from flat blued steel surfaces such as a Marlin 39 receiver by
(a) soaking the rust in WD40 for 48 hrs, then
(b) using a new single edge razor blade, carefully shaving the rust off the bluish without scratching the metal.
I accept used Kroil with 0000 steel wool to remove surface rust.
Oil, 0000 steel wool, and patience will remove the red oxide rust without removing the blue/blackness oxide bluing. Some suggest bronze wool, but I look you'd eolith some bronze in the pitting and have difficulty removing it.
I'd exist scared of the razor blade unless I was planning to refinish anyway.
Various brews containing phosphoric acid suck the oxygen out of the rust, leaving the fe.
Brownells makes 1 specifically for guns. Navel Jelly is a relatively balmy 1. Dupont makes some very strong ones for automotive body piece of work.
I have also done this. Works great on surface rust and if its deep enough yous need to give it some elbow grease you can go slowly and just deep enough that you need.
I got a S&Due west Model 36 "no-dash" through a lawyer friend who had a client going up the river and who had to dispose of information technology.
It was in pretty dainty condition, simply had a few light rust spots on it. I used Shooter's Option and a copper penny to scrub off the rust. You can barely meet where the rust was. You lot REALLY take to await for it.
A lead pencil will rub it off useing the atomic number 82 then wipe down with oil. Light rust all gone
Naval Jelly and the like are very constructive in removing blueing. In fact they will remove the blueing even before they assault the rust. My concluding foray in this was to remove the blueing from a Civil State of war socket bayonet that had been blued. Worked similar a charm.
If you lot don't want to remove the blueing, do similar the others take said and employ oil and a fine grade of steel wool. Small spots where the blueing has worn through tin can be touched up with cold bluish.
Lead Blaster and 0000 steel wool.
Ive had skillful success with whatever oil, or Hoppes No nine, and 4-0 steel wool carefully used, and/or a fresh penny with adept abrupt edges. Ive heard some newer ones werent all copper, if true, I call back youd want to have ane old enough to be all copper. A contumely/bronze bore bruss can sometimes help also. A decent diameter solvent should become any penny copper or bore brush deposits off the blued metal. Be careful non to scratch the blue with the steel wire core of a bore brush. In many instances, rust that isnt too deep will come off with trivial or no visible damage to the blueing, merely no guarantees.
I would kickoff with the least abrasive stuff and motion up as necessary. Really small spots of superficial rust can be removed with oil and a Q-tip or toothbrush. You can scrub hard with these or a coarse clean rag and get superficial rust off without damaging blue or metal. I would save the 4/0 steel wool or other abrasives for the more deeply pitted stuff. Birchwood Casey cold blue solution can exist daubed on with a Q-tip and then buffed with a fibroid material or a few wipes with the steel wool.
Go slowly for a more than harmonious outcome!
Guys, thank you for all the great suggestions.
I'll take a few photos of the before and later on to show what I end up with.
Greetings
ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the liquid we use. .Fantabulous penetrating oil that as well lubes and nutralizes corrosion. Let information technology sit a couple house and soak in well.
We start the "rub" with a common "green kitchen pad (no scouring pulverization). Apply pressure every bit needed.
If the greenish pad did not get it then the finest wool we have lightly applied. Patience will aid you here.
Mike in Republic of peru
Kroil is the "stuff" and steel wool is fine if no pitting.
If y'all have pitting plastic mold polishing stones work proficient and bachelor in any grit you want
from MSC Industrial Supply work very well. Just be sure to get the harder ones so to avoid
having "depression spots" the softer ones produce. The hard ones will stay flat and with a lilliputian care, y'all will never know it.

For the concluding impact Brownells Oxpho-Blue is far and away the all-time bluing on the market.
I have used this on complete projects too as bear upon-ups for many years.
In addition to a few coats on the bare area, make clean the whole affair with acetone or denatured alcohol
and do the whole thing for a perfect lucifer. In other words, if it's oil free this stuff will bluish over the original blue.
That's the simply affair I've used in the last xxx or then years. I tried them all.

Cheque out the link below.

http://world wide web.bing.com/videos/search?q=brownells+common cold+blue&view=detail&mid=6AA28B5F0E62AE91727E6AA28B5F0E62AE91727E&FORM=VIRE

Post some good pictures of the expanse you are working on and I tin help you out for certain.
Shaq Member

Joined:

Jan 19, 2016

Messages:

634
I had an quondam Remington 870 that had rust spots on the magazine tube under the forend. It was my first shotgun & I hadn't removed the forend for many years. I used fine steel wool with Interruption Free & all the rust came off. I didn't re-blue anything; just kept that surface area greased & checked it occasionally.
Depending on the brand of dark-green kitchen pad, a truthful scotchbrite brand pad/two sided sponge can scratch blue, tin fifty-fifty scratch glass if i isn't careful.
In the museum business organisation, nosotros used Bronze wool and light oil to remove rust from blued surfaces, Steel wool will scratch or thin the bluing or patina. Bronze wool is harder than rust and softer than steel. My personal best oil for removing rust and rust prevention was/is automotive transmission fluid. If there appears a coppery coating afterward scrubbing with statuary wool only wipe the surface with a cleaner containing ammonia. You can buy bronze wool from upwardly-calibration cabinet makers or places that sell gunkhole/marine paints.
What curator says and I stay away from steel wool. Nosotros used steel wool to polish metal and this means scratching the surface. For removing rust, I utilise a brass stick and some oil similar Frog's Lube (which is really simply coconut oil with an anti-coagulant and green coloring). To remove the contumely left on the bluish, employ Hoppe's.
I have had great success using Flitz for removing rust from guns without harming the remaining finish.
The pencil will work , it may accept 2 or 3 passes but when through wipe with clean textile to remove & then oil. This is what we used in the Navy for guns.
0000 steel wool and G96. I removed quite a scrap of rust from blued surfaces. About recently a Remington 870 receiver and barrel. Simply make certain the surface is wet with oil, non simply damp, earlier using the oil.
Are you lot aware that bluing is a class of "rust"?

hdwhit, tark and stoky like this.
My method takes a long time, simply it's pretty much safe every bit long as you don't go overboard.
I use Hoppes and fine steel wool to remove the majority of it. Later that, I just glaze it in MC2500 and leave it to soak in. Clean unremarkably, and repeat. Over fourth dimension, the rust will come off.
GBExpat is correct. Which is why folks who claim that this or that product "takes off rust without affecting the bluing" are deluding themselves.
Jim