What To Use To Clean Typewriter Keys

presents

The Typewriter Revolution:
A Typist'due south Companion for the 21st Century

Available now

For the best and latest presentation of my favorite techniques, run across Chapter 4 of my book.

Meanwhile, here'southward a drove of tips I've discovered myself and learned from friends. (Thanks especially to Rob Bowker, Gregory Fischer, Paul Dobias, Luis Galiano, Tim McCoy, Jared Mogensen, Jett Morton, Paul Musgrave, Lynn Myers, Robert Neuwirth, Paul Panella, Joseph Pierson, George Prytulak, Paul Ross, Matthieu Th�or�t, Lane Welch, and Peter Weil.) Everybody, if you have more tips, transport them in!

Before y'all do annihilation: Think nigh whether you're willing to alive with the consequences if yous mess upward. Endeavour to make certain that your alterations are reversible, and don't do anything to a truly rare machine other than gentle dusting and cleaning. The best way to go familiar with restoration techniques is to experiment on an ordinary typewriter commencement (how about a good onetime Underwood No. 5?). Whenever possible, test all these techniques on a hidden surface of the typewriter before you attack the principal surfaces.

Online Typewriter Support, by Volition Davis, provides further advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a transmission typewriter.

For more skillful ideas about restoration, check out The Typewriter Restoration Site.

Names of some products beneath are linked to Google Shopping so you lot tin compare prices online.

Initial cleanup and lubrication

Click here for a bones illustrated guide to cleaning and lubrication from a 1977 Reader's Digest volume.

These are happy hours for me, as I become to observe the various parts and features of my new typewriter and I start to uncover the beauty hidden under the filth. The pigment on your typewriter may appear cracked and irksome, simply chances are that you are looking at decades' worth of tightly compacted clay, grease, ink, sweat, and cigarette fume. If y'all tin can manage to remove that layer of crud, you may find that the underlying paint job is all the same smooth and can be fabricated to gleam. If you're unlucky, the crud will turn out to be a layer of varnish applied at the factory, which has grown wrinkly and brown with age; that can exist difficult to remove. Of form, if you're lucky plenty to observe a typewriter that has been kept in a instance, this won't be an outcome -- information technology will simply demand a footling loving care. In any case, you lot'll detect the following items useful:

Soft, make clean, white cotton wool rags. You'll get through a lot of these. The gentlest approach (recommended at beginning) is to wipe the typewriter with a wet rag, or a rag dipped in h2o with a few drops of dishwashing liquid.
Brushes: you can try toothbrushes, boom brushes, brushes for cleaning firearms or dentures, and artist's paintbrushes. The bristles on brushes tin can be trimmed to brand them stiffer.
Q-tips are nice for cleaning hard-to-reach areas. (Synthetic-tipped culling: Tipton's shooters swabs. One collector has written to me: "Instead of using Q-Tips, you tin also gyre your ain swabs using wooden applicator sticks (six" long 10 ane/16" bore) and cotton batting. Bamboo skewers work just likewise, and they last for days/weeks. I roll of cotton batting volition yield about a million swabs. As soon as a swab is muddy, you lot pull it off and replace it. The most important matter is to use damp--not wet--swabs. You can achieve this by rolling a wet swab on a piece of blotting paper. By doing this, y'all avoid flooding the surface, and water won't seep into all the wrong places."
For initial dust removal, the vacuum-cleaner hose attachment kits sold in computer and figurer supply stores and catalogs work very well. They are especially helpful in cleaning mechanical parts.
For more precise blasts of compressed air, buy a canister intended for cleaning electronic equipment (these are bachelor at near office supply stores).
You can also sic your leaf blower on your dusty old typewriter, or take it down to the gas station and take advantage of their compressed air. (Probably not a great idea for rare typewriters!)
Meghan South. writes: "Hey, I found something a few months back that helped wonders for the initial dust-off when I acquired a new machine -- dryer sheets! They collect grit equally y'all wipe, moving it all to one spot, and generally the dust volition stick to the sheet -- fifty-fifty dust y'all didn't know was at that place. Helps with thin layers of grease that cotton rags volition just movement around, besides. And they're sparse enough that you can get into hard-to-reach spaces (simply non the pocket-sized pieces)."

The following substances can help remove dirt and grease (often old typewriters have been over-oiled at some point in the past, or fifty-fifty dipped in a vat of oil, which in the long term turns into a sticky mess that must be removed).

Soft Scrub is a gentle liquid cleanser that is hands available. To remove heavy dirt, try applying diluted Soft Scrub with a finger or rag, and removing information technology with a rag, over and over and over. Careful: some finishes will be scratched fifty-fifty past this cleanser. But my Caligraph required vigorous scrubbing with undiluted Soft Scrub!
Endeavour Dentucreme: "aye, the toothpaste for dentures. Information technology is very mildly abrasive and extremely effective on surfaces that would show scratches. I use it on female parent-of-pearl and other delicate surfaces." --Lane Welch
Steve Maloney reports that "Gojo," a hand cleaner, is fantabulous for cleaning original lacquer black.
Scrubbing Bubbles is good for penetrating tiny crevices on wrinkle paint. Use a toothbrush to get it downwards into the wrinkles. It does have a tendency to remove some paint, and can harm decals, then be careful.
"For typewriters that have textured finishes, I would not recommend using piece of furniture polish. I take constitute that the best way to clean these surfaces without buffing downwards the textured finish is to use a 'fingernail' brush and a solution of baking soda and mild dishwashing detergent. I am liberal with the blistering soda and conservative with the dishwashing detergent. The dishwashing detergent is mainly there for removing oils. Y'all might exist surprised how much dirt gets accumulated in these textured finishes." -- Paul Dobias
"A very skillful cleaner that works well with 'crackle lacquer' finishes is Dow Scrubbing Bubbling. It is a water based foaming cleaner that lifts out clay and other grunge from the nooks and crannies in the cease. It too works well on smooth finishes, just is really skillful if you are trying to get downwards into the item. It also is excellent for such things equally the oil cloth and simulated leather of portable cases. The current product is fabricated past Johnson, and is non as expert in my estimation as the original Dow product, but it is still very good. I have used it on auto interiors such as headliners, and or musical instrument cases, as well every bit music amplifiers with Tolex covering. Using a soft castor like an old tooth castor works well. It is and then skilful, later on wiping off the last application, to use manifestly h2o to wipe down the surface until clean." --Tim McCoy
"Another more aggressive product, but however water based, is �Krud Kutter�; this stuff volition clean the grease off of an erstwhile engine, but not harm the pigment. It, like the Scrubbing Bubbles, should exist finished with a clean water wipe down, until all traces of dirt are off. There is another even more than aggressive version chosen Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. I�ve not tried information technology, but it might be useful in a watered downwardly form, simply exam information technology on something before using it on some collectable." --Tim McCoy
"For postwar machines, utilise a cleaner designed for pots and pans, or even dish lather--it will cutting through the grime and brand whatever gray typewriter a little less gray/dull." --Nick Bodemer
Oil volition better the functioning of some parts, notably when practical to the carriage runway. Utilise very sparingly, with the end of a pin or paper clip. Employ a light, loftier-grade oil. 3-in-1 Oil is an easily bachelor option. Probably a improve choice is gun oil, such as Hoppe's Gun Oil, or a penetrant such as PB Blaster.
It'southward a bad idea to put oil in the segment (the slotted piece that holds the typebars); the oil can go dirty and gummy after a while.
It's a bad thought to employ WD-40 on a typewriter. It is not a good lubricant for fine machinery and after a footling fourth dimension, it will get gummy and make things worse than always.
Gun cleaning solvents can be very useful. I accept had skilful luck with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Other products I have heard about are 1000-Pro gun cleaning spray, G-96, and Break Gratis.
Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant has worked very well for me in removing sometime oil and lubricating mechanisms.
Atomic number 82 Equalizer can remove old grease and free up parts. It also tin can restore shine to dark wrinkle paint, every bit it seeps into tiny crevices.
Stronger products (use outdoors, and test inconspicuously on decals and paint) include naphtha (lighter fluid) and carburetor cleaner.
"Also a skillful cleaner is equal parts of acetone, automatic transmission fluid, kerosene, and mineral spirits. Be careful of the acetone, withal. This is a standard firearms cleaning mixture for cleaning bores, etc. For really gunked up typewriters, information technology works pretty practiced." --Paul Ross
Mineral spirits (e.1000., Varsol or Stoddard Solvent, available at paint stores) have been recommended to me. "Brush the mineral spirits on, using a natural-fiber castor which is bonded onto the handle with metal, non plastic. The machine should then be GENTLY blown out with an air compressor. Then utilise a light lubrication to moving parts."
"When performing cleaning and lubrication, I would recommend following up subsequently degreasers and lighter oils with a heavier oil. Also, oils used around chipped and delaminating coatings may contribute to farther delamination. For instance, for blowing out dusts, removing some grease buildup, and to exit behind a think layer of lubricant, I would recommend using 'Television Tuner Cleaner,' and then follow up with a lite oil." -- Paul Dobias
"At l cents each, Southern Bloomer cleaning rags may be expensive (after all, they're going to go dirty quick), just they put out no lint, and they've been a big aid." --Robert Neuwirth
"Automatic transmission fluid, thinned fifty% with kerosene, is an excellent rust preventive and general lubricant. Lots of anti-oxidant material in it, so it doesn't 'mucilage upward' with time. As usual, in oiling, utilise sparingly." --Paul Ross
Instead of lubricating with oil, which tin can eventually collect grit and make the mechanism stick once more, you can try dry, powdered graphite. (This is non recommended for utilise on anything that has aluminum, since graphite has a high galvanic difference to aluminum and will pit and corrode information technology.)
"Tipton's Metallic Magic rust and lead Removing Cloths do a good chore rubbing grime, rust, and discoloration off typebars and other naked metal pieces. Leaves a fleck of a greasy experience, then you accept to rub downward with a apparently cloth subsequently you're washed". --Robert Neuwirth
"Iosso Gunbrite is good at taking off serious surface rust without destroying chromed surfaces, though you have to rub like crazy." --Robert Neuwirth
Platen cleaning: after an initial wiping with h2o and Soft Scrub, several brands of rubber/plastic restorer can remove more dirt. For more on platens, run across the next department. "Rubber rejuvenators" will clean platens, but not really rejuvenate the condom. In my experience, the stuff is also skillful for dissolving onetime grease, such every bit grease stuck in the slots of a segment.
Fedron Safety Cleaner Conditioner is a heavy-duty solvent that cleans type and platens. If you can find a dauber (like the type used for liquid shoe smooth) spread a sparse coating on the blazon and let information technology work for about a minute or two, then wipe off with a rag. For the platen, if the platen tin can be removed, put some Fedron on a rag and wipe the rubber off. It instantly removes dirt, ink, and rust marks. Fedron is harsh: exist certain to proceed information technology away from paint, decals, and all delicate parts and materials (such equally string and plastic). Use in a well-ventilated expanse: it stinks!

How do you remove mold from a typewriter?

"That moldy smell" is a common trouble, especially with portables--and if y'all're allergic to mold, information technology tin be a real health hazard. Yes, the smell is caused primarily by mold, combined with decades of dust and cigarette smoke. Mold won't grow on metal, but it volition abound on typewriter ribbons and on textile-covered cases. Accept your typewriter out of its case and accident the lint and grit out of it (a compressed air canister for cleaning reckoner and stereo equipment is handy here). Throw away the ribbon. Look advisedly for any surfaces that may have mold on them (the typebars usually remainder on fabric or felt; some typewriters as well accept felt elsewhere, to deaden the dissonance). Clean and polish the machine using the materials I list on this page. The cases can be cleaned with harsher materials, such as Scrubbing Bubbles, Concrobium mold control, Lysol, window cleaner, or ammonia. Mr. Clean's Eraser Pads have also been recommended to me for this purpose. And then let everything dry out thoroughly, preferably in sunlight. Store typewriters and cases in dry environments with moderate temperatures. You may have to clean the cases again every half dozen months or so.
Paul Panella writes: "I've plant that the musty smell from the one-time leatherette cases can exist removed by first wiping down with a light disinfectant wipe. I utilise Clorox disinfecting wipes. And then I generously apply Old English language lemon oil furniture polish inside and out. The leatherette merely soaks it up and it seems to take intendance of the strong odor with no residue. These old cases are so dry out that the lemon oil disappears almost immediately."
Paul Musgrave writes: "Sometimes, the smell of an old typewriter is quite pleasant and should be left as is for the sake of actuality. Other times, an old typewriter has been left in a basement where a nasty, eye-scorching fungus has staked its claim on the dormant old machine. This is especially true of higher-cease portables (ones with felt soundproofing) that take been left in their woods-beat out cases in a damp environment. Some examples are the Smith Corona Silent and Olympia SMs.
"My first experience with a nasty, moldy typewriter was with a Smith Corona Super. I went and then far as to remove the felt, but unfortunately, I wasn't quite able to get the soundproofing to really piece of work later on that. I switched tactics later on that experience. My adjacent automobile was with a Smith Corona Silent (Speedline). Information technology is a cute auto, only the musty olfactory property was strong enough to fill the room. This fourth dimension, I used Concrobium Mold Command. It is sold in spray bottles at Home Depot (among other retailers). I took the shell off the Silent, carefully sprayed the Concrobium on the felt (it leaves a foggy glaze on well-nigh parts, so I highly recommend being precise in spraying...even pressing the nozzle directly against the felt and slowly injecting the fluid into the felt). After letting information technology soak into the felt for a few minutes, I sopped up the excess in a paper towel and let the pieces air dry. Sure enough, the Concrobium killed whatever mold and spores lived in the felt and took the edge off the olfactory property. I've tried the same technique with a SC Skyriter with success. From what I understand, Concrobium leaves an anti-fungal and anti-microbial film wherever it is applied to kill whatever fungi is on it and prevent it from returning. Since the felt in a typewriter is almost always hidden and used solely for sound wearisome, I can't imagine the film would exist a problem. It's been virtually a year since I treated my Silent, and I've not had any sick effects whatsoever.

"In nigh cases, the wooden carrying instance often absorbs the musty odour. This was truthful in the case of my Silent. I was able to make clean the example (inside and out) using the techniques I learned on your webpage, which helped somewhat. To kill the rest of the smell, I took some fresh pipe tobacco (cheap stuff from the drug store volition work, as long equally it smells pleasant), wrapped nigh a argent dollar'southward worth up in a coffee filter, tied it into a parcel using a trash pocketbook tie, and set it in the typewriter case. Later on a few weeks, the slight remains of the old typewriter aroma blends with the scent of the fresh pipe tobacco and the typewriter smells quite divine. I commonly wouldn't recommend tobacco use to anybody, but in this instance it was put to a really proficient employ!"

Improving paint, metal, rubber, and other parts

The typical deep-blackness color of an early on typewriter consists of lacquer, which is quite difficult to restore. Enamel pigment was introduced in the 1920s. Typewriters also take many metal parts which are susceptible to rust and discoloration. The shiny metal parts of older typewriters are nickel-plated; some newer machines have chrome-plated parts.

Rust

Rust removal should exist attempted past the gentlest method first. In gild from gentlest to roughest, I recommend: Mother'south Mag & Aluminum Shine (bachelor at motorcar supply stores); superfine steel wool (try to avoid getting the steel filings into the machinery); superfine sandpaper; rougher steel wool; a synthetic scrubbing pad; a rotary tool (such equally a Dremel) with a wire brush attachment (I recommend the cup-shaped brush; wear middle protection, as bits of wire will wing off); a rotary tool with a cratex attachment (rubber impregnated with a tough material). The cratex attachments do a bully job of removing rust, but they will leave a mark; utilize them for initial heavy rust removal, then finish with a wire brush to smooth out the stop.
Evapo-Rust is an first-class product if you demand to remove rust from the whole torso of a car, or if you want to de-rust individual parts without using the methods higher up. You immerse things in this product and just the rust disappears. It is nontoxic and reusable. In order to immerse a whole typewriter, you lot will need five gallons (it can be diluted a bit with h2o if necessary). Remove the body panels and platen. If at that place are any remaining pigment and decals, protect them with a adept coat of wax, equally the Evapo-Rust tin can impairment them. Afterward soaking in Evapo-Rust for up to 24 hours, things tin can be rinsed off in water. And so dry them immediately with a pilus dryer or other ways. (With some parts you lot may non mind having a residue of Evapo-Rust on them, which will protect against future rust, so there is no need to rinse.) The Evapo-Rust may exit a dull or dark rest on surfaces, which tin easily be polished clean. You may besides get acceptable effects by spraying Evapo-Rust repeatedly for virtually an 60 minutes, instead of immersing the machine. Some products chemically identical to Evapo-Rust are also available. They and the original tin can be found on eBay with a search for "Evapo-Rust."
"For pocket-sized rust removal, try using an electric eraser (also known as an 'architect'southward eraser'). Koh-I-Noor and Staedtler both make fairly cheap models with a variety of eraser refills. The grayness, ink erasers are the most ambitious. The soft, white refills are especially good for removing light surface clay and oxide layers (practice on a tarnished penny!)."

Paint

Hither'due south a really easy way to touch up pocket-sized spots of black paint (which is by far the most common color on early on typewriters): use a permanent black marking. This is easy to apply, lies flat on the surface, and can make a large deviation. Despite the term "permanent," information technology is also easier to remove than paint.
What if you desire or need to apply existent paint? Touch-up pigment for cars, which is sold in tiny bottles in auto shops, can be handy here. Information technology dries to a glossy end and is non thick or clumpy, as long equally it'due south shaken enough in advance. Only have a good wait at your typewriter in the sunlight after this pigment has stale -- you may find that it'south non actually as black equally the original paint.
"The paint pen to use is Uni-Paint medium line PX-xx (or fine line if you prefer) Opaque Oil Base marker. You can order them at Staples in just nearly any color of the rainbow.They only have a twenty-four hours or two to get." -- Robert Nelson
"For coatings bear upon up, ensure that surfaces are gratuitous of oils, buff exposed substrate materials with an annoying pad, and recoat with nail polish. The 'anchor tooth' from abrading will ensure adhesion, merely your requirements probably won't be higher than a simple visually detected surface profile. Nail polishes come in many shades, then you should be able to become your exact lucifer. Besides, they have a tendency to ready up a picayune thicker than some of the automotive paints, which adds to the depth and luster of the color to ameliorate simulate the multiple layer event of lacquers." -- Paul Dobias
"Goo Gone" tin can remove unwanted pigment that has been added past a previous possessor, revealing the original paint and decals below. It likewise removes Wite-Out.
To restore faded pigment on keys and scales, endeavor Lacquer-Stik Fill-In Paint.

Feet and feed rollers

Bob Aubert offers new replacement feet made of black Buna N synthetic rubber, which is far more than durable than the original composite material. The feet are sold in sets for the following typewriters: Columbia/Barlock Models i- 20; Hammond 1 - 12, and the non-folding Multiplex; Harris/Rex Visible iv; LC Smith one - 8; Oliver ane - 11; Smith Premier one - 10; Remington Standard 10; Royal Flatbed one - v; early Imperial 10; Underwood ane - 5; Wellington ii & 3; Williams 1 - 6, Yost i - iv, and some portables. Prices vary from $7.50 to $35.00 per ready (postpaid) depending on size and whether or not the mounting hardware is included. He does non have any tapered square of rectangular feet. There are two dissimilar sizes of stepped bumpers available. They will work any typewriter with ane/2" or 5/8" mounting holes. If you require a different stem diameter, these feet tin can exist modified to fit. For more info, Bob's e-mail service address is rite2aubert@juno.com or call him at (856) 461-7080.
You lot can also visit your local hardware store in search of rubber parts that will work as feet. Sometimes a rubber stopper volition be ideal (tip: squeeze the big terminate in first, not the small end). Andy McWilliams writes that this item worked perfectly to replace the feet on a Remington portable #5 (and they will probably work on similar Remington portables): 27/32 x 9/32 inch slip joint washers, Dwelling house Depot stock number 38809b, made past Danco Co., Concordville, PA 19331. Ryan Long had luck fitting his ain Remington portable #v with "Replacement Aqua-Seal Washers for 'American Standard,'" size: fits 2k-2h and 2c, made by Danco for faucet repair. They fit into identify and lock with an O-Ring.
I collector writes: "I am writing to yous to add a tip regarding typewriter feet. I found this stuff to be most ingenious indeed and very reasonably priced compared to having feet manufactured professionally or fifty-fifty purchasing new former stock. It runs near $ix.00 to $12.00 for a packet. The product is called Sugru. It is an air-curing molding gum putty that dries overnight into a soft silicone/ rubber and it comes in a variety of colors that tin exist mixed into custom colors too. Black, white and grey are also available. You tin shape it, mold it or cover things with it and it adheres to the surface you utilise it to! It can even be ordered in a magnetized course."
Slices of vino corks can brand easy replacements for feet, if you don't feel you need rubber.
Another possibility is refurbishing the old safety anxiety. Carl Strange recommends "a product chosen Plasti Dip, which is usually idea of as a coating for hand tools; it gives new life (and restored majority, to say nothing of a rubbery grip) to emaciated typewriter feet. A can costs about $8. I used it on a 1941 Underwood Champion and my dear old Underwood 11 with very satisfactory results."
Feed rollers are often hardened or have developed "flats" from beingness pressed against the platen for decades. Matthieu Th�or�t reports that removing the old rubber and replacing it with shrink tubing tin can be the solution. "For the back rollers, I used well-nigh 8 layers of tubing, shrunk and cut to attain a great await. The front end rollers took just 4 layers. I used a smaller bore tube that I loosened with my pliers, then that the shrunk result would be really tight."
Bob Aubert suggests using rubber hose for cars to recover your feed rollers. "I've done it this way at least a hundred times and information technology works! Simply take your sometime rollers to a car place, enquire to see their hose stock, pick something that is close and it will be just fine. Shop for a brand that is smooth on the exterior! Cut information technology roughly to size, slip it on, put the shaft into an electric drill, and trim the excess off with a razor while information technology's turning. Information technology will look like it was washed in the Remington factory!"
You may also be able to recover feed rollers with latex tubing, sold past length in some hardware stores.
Another solution worth trying is pencil grips.
Black electrical tape may also work, and for this method you don't demand to remove the feed rollers from their housing (which is sometimes difficult). Just cut and scrape off the sometime condom and utilise the record, stretching fairly tightly and making it every bit long every bit it needs to be to reproduce the original bore. Put it on in such a way that the normal direction of rotation will tend to keep flattening down the end of the record.
Ane last suggestion for feed rollers: when heated with a hair dryer they may become pliable and yous may be able to reshape them. Heat may besides assistance y'all unstick feed rollers from a platen.

Platens

The platen is the press surface of a typewriter -- normally, a rubber-covered cylinder. The rubber on an onetime platen may get hard and slick, and then that it doesn't grip paper properly and the type hits it with a harsh, loud impact. What to do?

Vigorous scrubbing with Soft Scrub will remove the dirty and slick exterior layer of the rubber, and meliorate the grip.
Yous can also try roughening the platen by scrubbing it with sandpaper, merely I similar the results of Soft Scrub improve.
Brake fluid (DOT iii) reacts chemically with rubber and breaks it down. It will soften safe unacceptably when exposed to it for the long term. A little exposure, however, can add together a trivial flexibility and grip to the outermost layer of a platen. Yous can wipe a thin layer of restriction fluid on with a paper towel, leave it on for most an hr, so wipe off any residue. Avert skin and eye contact. Allow several hours of drying afterwards this procedure, because at outset the platen exterior will exist likewise soft and should not be handled or used.
Use ane or two sheets of bankroll paper for cushioning if your platen is hard.
Up until April 2022, the Ames Supply Co. of Illinois provided a platen recovering service. In May 2022 they appear they were going out of concern after 110 years.
In Deutschland, platens volition exist recovered by Eveline Theobald B�romaschinen.
In Italy, contact Domenico Scarzello.
In the Netherlands, AKB Longs will recover platens.
In Switzerland, Typ Gummi TGW will do the job.
In the UK, contact Mr. & Mrs. Vintage Typewriters or attempt Longs.
In the USA, J.J. Short recovers platens. Write to Peter at pjshort@jjshort.com to get a quote, providing the following data: the inside diameter of the rubber tube or the outside diameter of the wooden or metal core without the safe; the current outside diameter of the platen; and the length of the rubber. "For multiple platens in the aforementioned size range nosotros will offering discounted pricing for qtys of ii-5 and vi+."
West Coast Platen, http://world wide web.platen.com/, had some spare platens in stock as of June 2022. You lot may e-mail george@platen.com.
Rino Breebart has illustrated on his blog how he recovered a Hermes platen using a bicycle inner tube. For a diameter and smoothness matching the original specifications, you probably want to get a professionally installed new platen, but this is an interesting possibility.
I accept used colored shrink tubing to give a platen a new surface and a new color (regal!). Like using a bicycle tube, this is not the most professional and precise solution, but it is at least fun. Yous need tubing that is large enough to fit easily over the platen. Yous can heat it over a gas stove burner, turning frequently and rolling the platen on a counter every so ofttimes to smooth out the wrinkles. Afterward 5-10 minutes the tubing will fit tightly onto the platen.

Detailing

Many early on typewriters are busy with pinstripes -- often these are sparse parallel lines of blue and xanthous. Beugler offers a kit for precision pinstriping with paint. Other pinstriping supplies are available from Finesse Pinstriping. You tin also notice pinstriping decals at many hobby shops, or society them from The Antique Phonograph Supply Co., Road 23, Box 123, Davenport Center, NY 13751-0123, phone 607-278-6218.
Bits of gold may be missing from the decals or lettering. 1 amateurish solution is to touch them up with a fine-betoken metallic gold marker. This is easily scratched off, but for the beginner that's probably a virtue. The metallic mark really can improve the neatness of your typewriter if it's used wisely.
Replacement decals for many antiquarian typewriters are offered by Paul Robert. Visit his Etsy shop hither. A longer list of his decals is here.
It's possible to get nickel parts replated. You may want to consult a professional (such every bit Rayco Metal Finishing), but a home replating kit is made past Vigor-Bestfit, 320 Thornton Road, Lithia Springs, GA 30057. Phone 770-944-2733, fax 770-944-2765. The kit is bachelor at Zak Jewelry Tools, 55 Due west 47th Street, New York, NY, phone 212-768-8122.
Replacement leather handle straps (for cases) can be cutting from used leather belts. Nice replacement leather handles are besides available at some music stores, as they are used on instrument cases.
If the key legends (the letters, numbers, etc.) on your keys are stained or faded, you tin can supplant them. It helps a lot to take special tools for removing and replacing the metal fundamental rings. I have prepared a PDF of key legends that you tin download here. Impress it on a laser printer at actual size (not "compress to fit"). The PDF is loftier-resolution (1200dpi), merely the quality of your printout will depend on your printer, the print settings, and the paper used. You may also prefer this black-and-white (bitmap) version.

Polishing

Hither's the sensuous stage. Loving applications and re-applications of polishing agents will go out your typewriter looking glossy, fresh and grateful. You'll be amazed at the departure!

For a safe, effective end used by museums, I recommend Renaissance brand microcrystalline wax. It can exist found on eBay and at various online suppliers. Apply and buff the wax with clean cotton material.
A good alternative is a commercial blend of microcrystalline waxes, in paste form, such as Johnson's "Klear" or "AeroWax."
Mother'south Carnauba Cleaner Wax (available in motorcar supply stores) works nicely. Other car finishes, such as Turtle Wax, can also work well.
Wax can be removed with a fabric dampened in mineral spirits (such equally Varsol and Stoddard Solvent). Employ in a well-ventilated area.
Pledge is an hands available smoothen that I take often used as a cleaning and polishing amanuensis. Spray it on a clean rag, wipe the role you lot're polishing thoroughly with the rag, repeat until the rag doesn't look chocolate-brown at all. Still, I have been warned that overuse of Pledge tin leave a sticky balance. It also contains silicone, which may be impossible to remove later; do not spray it on the mechanism, and do not use Pledge on a rare machine. Endust claims that information technology contains no silicone. Nick Bodemer reports, "For prewar typewriters, I utilise Old English Lemon Furniture Smooth--it works very well, and does not remove decals (even on a 1930s Royal)."
I've also heard that Fantastick works well equally a polish and cleaner.
Other effective polishes include Armor All and Klasse All-in-I Polish.
Elaine Golladay suggests Klasse All in I Acrylic Protectant. Note that this car polish volition go out a strong and shiny acrylic layer on the typewriter.
Mother's Magazine & Aluminum Shine (bachelor at car supply stores) is an excellent cleaner and smoothen for metal parts both large and pocket-sized. On machines with a lot of aluminum (such every bit the Blick 6 or Hammond Folding) this stuff can piece of work a miraculous transformation.
Other metal polishes include Flyt (available at gun shops) and Simichrome (which has been highly recommended to me for aluminum -- ask at motorcar supply shops).

Mechanical repairs

Click hither for a basic illustrated guide to simple repairs from a 1977 Reader's Assimilate book.

Click hither for a Web version of Clarence LeRoy Jones' Typewriter Mechanical Training Transmission, published by the U.Southward. War Department in 1944.

More service manuals tin can be constitute on my manuals folio.

Manual typewriters operate on relatively unproblematic principles, and you can usually fix a problem using patient investigation and some screwdrivers. But don't underestimate the need to proceed runway of all the parts y'all remove! You tin can easily find yourself with a pile of parts that y'all can't fit together again. Check Online Typewriter Back up, by Volition Davis, for further advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a transmission typewriter. As for typewriter repair shops, visit my list of them here.

Chapman Mfg. Co. has put together a nice screwdriver kit with bits designed especially for typewriter repair.
You may want to invest in a prepare of gunsmith's screwdriversouthward. They are available in boxed sets with up to 58 interchangeable bits, besides as ultrathin sets. This allows yous to find a perfect fit for every slotted screwhead, so harm is less likely to occur. (Note that older screws tend to have much narrower slots than modernistic ones.) "The all-time source for these screwdrivers is Brownell's, Inc., 200 South Forepart Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171; tel. 515-623-5401; fax 515-623-3896. Check out their 'Magna-Tip Super-Sets.' You'll wonder how you managed without them. Virtually $82.00, but they'll last a lifetime."
Magnetic screwdrivers are helpful for belongings on to screws.
Sears sells very useful sets of Craftsman tools meant for repairing computers and other electronic equipment. The tools are hard steel, many have fine tips, and an ample variety of screwdrivers is included.
Dental picks are helpful as a means of reaching and manipulating interior areas.
A common trouble is a cleaved wagon drawband (cord or strap). The bones principle is simple: attach a new drawband to the butt (containing the mainspring) and i end of the railroad vehicle. The mainspring ordinarily does non have to exist wound upward while y'all are doing this; information technology tin be tightened later. Simply this is all easier said than done, and this repair tin be frustrating. The method will vary based on the model of typewriter. You may desire to employ or create a long, thin wire with a hook at the end which can be pushed nether the carriage and used to pull the cord through.
Kite string or strong f ishing line tin exist a helpful replacement for broken drawbands. Rob Bowker writes, "In the absenteeism of fine waxed string I accept at in one case used baler twine, but more poetically I take used 'cat-gut' - a nice organic replacement. A 1950s, warped and unplayable tennis racket was the donor."
Flat shoelaces can supervene upon carriage pull straps.
Sometimes the mainspring itself is broken. Usually i end of it has snapped off. Open up up the barrel to take a look. You tin ordinarily make a new hole in the finish of the spring using a Dremel bicycle, and reattach the spring to the barrel.
Rob Blickensderfer (blickr@comcast.net) makes parts for various antique typewriters, such as Hammond ribbon spool covers, Blickensderfer paper supports and release bails, and cranks for the Smith Premier castor cleaner. Very reasonably priced.
Jim Donahue (770-714-0556, jcd30281@yahoo.com) runs "Oliverservices," with many parts for Olivers equally well as several products to service them: ribbons, touch on-up paint, stainless return cablevision, replated parts, etc. Visit his eBay store here.
David Randall shows us how to make new ribbon covers for a Remington noiseless portable on his blog equally well every bit how to make new tab stops.

Typing

Then now you're set up to exercise some actual typing with your motorcar! Even if you're not going to employ it for everyday correspondence, it's nice to know that information technology's functioning and "live" once once again. Y'all need to deal with a few issues such as inking, clean type, and alignment.

Ribbons for most typewriters tin can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply store. The standard width is half an inch, and you'll notice that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter tin can type in two colors (and almost can), buy a black-and-cherry ribbon: information technology looks nice! For suggestions on ribbon sources, come across my FAQ.
Ribbon spools must be appropriate to your machine. The well-nigh common are the kind that fit Underwoods, Smith-Coronas, and Regal portables; German typewriters commonly apply a type called DIN 2103 which has a larger central hole. Olivetti spools need to be held down with a particular kind of nut (type DIN 466 M3); you can observe new ones online.
Odd-size ribbons: try ribbons made for computer printers, printing calculators, time clocks, and cash registers.
How to re-ink a ribbon: "In one case a ribbon has run out of ink, and the typewriter has wound it all upwardly onto one spool, remove the ribbon from the typewriter. Get a bottle of STAMP-PAD INK, the same color every bit the ribbon (this works best with single-colour ribbons). Keeping the ribbon wound upward onto one spool, coat the outermost part of the ribbon with stamp-pad ink, and allow it to saturate through to the interior layers of ribbon, wound around the spool. You should really only have to do this rather sparingly. No more than two-3 drops here and there. Let the ink soak into the ribbon, and then rethread the whole thing back into the typewriter. Information technology'll run similar new :) A bottle of stamp-pad ink is like $5, and one little bottle will last yous for many re-inkings. Postage stamp-pad ink is ideal, because similar typewriter ink, information technology doesn't readily dry out in open air, so that means the ribbon won't dry overnight, but will stay moist...well...until information technology runs out of ink once more!" --Shahan Cheong
It may be worthwhile to treat a ribbon that still has ink, just has dried out, by spraying it with WD-40. Lay it out yard by yard / meter past meter and spray lightly and quickly. (Reminder: exercise non employ WD-40 to lubricate the typewriter itself.)
Ink rollers for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines: one solution is to get rollers made for press calculators, which can be procured at a good office supply shop. You'll have to cut them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a lilliputian steep ($iii or $4 for ane roller -- the original Blickensderfer toll was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. Another solution, more durable and much less expensive, but non always easy to find, is gun cleaning felts fabricated by a visitor such every bit VFG; go them in 7mm or 7.5mm size. They tin can be inked with stamp ink from manufacturers such as ExcelMark or Trodat.
Ink pads for machines like the Williams: don't supervene upon an ink pad unless you actually want to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink might corrode the type. A slice of black felt cutting to the correct size volition wait very dainty. If y'all do want to try inking, you tin can effort using stamp ink (see just higher up) but I don't know what kind of cloth will best hold the ink without drying out.
Hammonds originally came with a rubberized cloth impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is usually missing or cleaved, but information technology is necessary in guild to become skillful typing. Paul Robert recommends: "If there is a wheel shop in your expanse, get at that place and buy one of those narrow prophylactic protection strips that go around the wheel to protect the inner tube from existence punctured by the spokes. Cut off a piece i half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and you have the perfect impression strip."
To make sure your types volition print clearly, you lot'll probably demand to make clean out the crevices of messages like "e" and "southward." Use the tip of a pin. Be gentle, then y'all won't harm the type.
For heavy-duty type cleaning, try Fedron (see to a higher place under "Initial Cleanup") or denatured alcohol (don't get it on paint).
Old products such as Star Type Cleaner were intended to fit into the type and elevator out some ink. For a modern replacement, Matthieu Th�or�t reports: "the Staedtler fine art eraser is malleable plenty and lifts the old caked ink like a charm." Elaine Hadden Golladay recommends Dap BlueStik (a reusable adhesive putty).
Alignment may be a big problem in an old typewriter. The typebars may stick at the press point, considering they're too far to the right or left. The Oliver may produce especially wacky-looking work because of the nature of its typebars. The merely solution is to bend the typebars back into position, using guesswork and experimentation and care. If you lot're lucky, you can find some specialized tools for gently bending typebars; otherwise, try needle-nosed pliers.